DJI Neo 2 Review - The Ultimate All-In-One AI Drone for Solo Creators

If you’ve followed me for a while, you know GetFitOver40 isn’t only about sets, reps and macros. For me, fitness is also about lifestyle and mental health, doing the things that light you up and keep you excited about life.

For me, one of those things is flying drones. I use them for my GetFitOver40 videos, for my Replica Airguns channel, and honestly just for fun. There’s something about being outside, moving around, and capturing cool shots that really fills the mental-fitness bucket.

Recently I picked up a new drone that I’m pretty excited about: the DJI Neo 2. I ordered the Fly More Combo as soon as it dropped on Amazon here in Canada. In this article, I’ll go over what it replaces in my current setup, what’s in the box, and why this little AI drone is probably going to become my main “do-it-all” camera drone.

Why I Upgraded to the DJI Neo 2

Until now, my “AI drone lineup” has been a bit of a juggling act:

• DJI Neo (original) – Great little AI drone, decent video, solid tracking and FPV-style fun.

• HoverAir X1 Pro Max – Absolutely amazing video quality, bigger sensor, super clean 4K image… but it doesn’t do everything the Neo does.

• Other FPV drones for the more immersive, swoopy flying.

The problem was:

• The Neo did more things, but the video quality wasn’t as good.

• The HoverAir X1 Pro Max had better image quality, but didn’t offer all the same AI and FPV-style versatility.

So I ended up needing multiple drones depending on what I was doing.

Based on all the early reviews and footage I saw, the DJI Neo 2 looked like it could finally replace both my original Neo and the HoverAir X1 Pro Max for most of what I do: fitness content, lifestyle shots, drone B-roll and even tracking shots for my Replica Airguns videos.

Unboxing the Fly More Combo

I went with the Fly More Combo, which in Canadian dollars came out to about $550. Here’s what you get in that kit:

• DJI Neo 2 drone

• RC-N3 controller

• Three batteries total

• Charging hub

• Antenna / transmitter module pre-installed on the back of the drone

• Extra propellers (A + B)

• USB cables (including a Lightning cable for iPhone users)

The regular base Neo 2 is cheaper, but it doesn’t include:

• The RC-N3 controller

• The antenna module for long-range use

• Extra batteries and charging hub

For me, the combo made sense. It turns the Neo 2 into a true hybrid: I can fly it via phone only for quick runs or use the RC-N3 and get serious range and more traditional “drone” control.

Neo 2 vs Neo 1 vs HoverAir X1 Pro Max

Physically, the Neo 2 and Neo 1 are similar in footprint, but the Neo 2 is flatter and more low-profile. The big change is in the gimbal and brains:

• Both Neo 1 and Neo 2 use roughly the same size sensor (around a 1/2" type sensor),
  but:

  • Neo 1 only has a single-axis gimbal (up and down).

  • Neo 2 has a two-axis gimbal (up/down + side-to-side).

With the Neo 1, when it was flying sideways in the wind, the drone had to digitally crop in to keep the horizon level. That means you lose resolution and field of view. The Neo 2’s mechanical two-axis gimbal keeps the sensor level while the drone tilts, so you get:

• Less cropping

• More of the sensor actually used

• Cleaner, more stable footage

On top of that, the Neo 2 has newer, faster processing and can shoot:

• 4K at 60 fps all day long

• Up to 100 fps in 4K for even smoother motion

The old Neo topped out at 4K 30 fps, which is pretty limiting if you do FPV-style flying or lots of action where you want smoother footage.

As for the HoverAir X1 Pro Max: it still has the best pure image quality of the three. Bigger sensor, 8K capture downsampled to 4K, and excellent low-light performance. But it doesn’t give me the same all-around versatility that the Neo 2 does, especially for FPV-style flying and advanced AI features.

For my needs, fitness videos, outdoor lifestyle content, tracking shots while I’m riding boards, bikes or EUCs, the Neo 2 is the better all-rounder even if the HoverAir still wins slightly in low-light and pixel-peeping.

Obstacle Avoidance, Sensors & Durability

The DJI Neo 2 is loaded with sensors:

• Fisheye cameras on the top and bottomm that give it nearly 360° awareness.

• A front-facing LiDAR sensor, which doesn’t rely on light, it measures distance, almost like a 3D scanner.

That means:

• It can track and avoid obstacles even in low light.

• It’s extremely good at seeing trees, branches, poles, and people, and adjusting its path to avoid collisions.

• It’s arguably one of the best object-avoidance drones on the market right now bar none.

On top of that, the Neo 2 is built like a little tank:

• Full guards around the props

• Compact body

• A bunch of videos out there showing it crashing and coming out just fine

So even if it does clip a branch once in a while, it’s usually no big deal.

Battery Life & Range

Real-world numbers matter more than marketing, so here’s what I’m seeing and what others report:

• Each battery is rated for around 19 minutes, but realistically you’re looking at:

  • 12–16 minutes depending on how aggressively you fly and the conditions.

• With three batteries in the Fly More Combo, that’s about 35–40 minutes of actual usable flight time in the real world.

Range:

• Phone-only (Wi-Fi): DJI claims up to 500 m, but realistically expect 200–300 m of solid, reliable range.

• With the RC-N3 + antenna module: you can get serious distance (DJI talks about up to 20 km in ideal conditions). In real life, it’s plenty of range for typical filming and tracking scenarios.

AI Tracking, Gesture Control & “Jedi Mode”

This is where the Neo 2 shines for a solo creator like me.

You’ve got multiple ways to control and track yourself:

1. App-Based AI Tracking

Using the phone app, you can:

• Select follow modes (front, side, rear, etc.)

• Adjust distance (near, medium, far) and height

• Switch angles while it’s actively tracking you

It will follow you forward, backwards, sideways, and does an impressive job staying locked on while avoiding obstacles.

2. Gesture Control (“Jedi” Mode)

This is one of the coolest features:

• Raise your hand with palm showing = it recognizes you

• Move your hand with palm showing up/down = drone moves up/down

• Move your hand with palm showing left/right = drone shifts left/right

• Spread your hands apart with palms showing or bring them together = adjust distance

• Close your fist to lock in the position

You can literally reposition the drone mid-shot without stopping recording or digging into menus. It looks like you’re doing some Jedi mind-control, but it’s incredibly practical when you’re filming yourself.

3. Intelligent Flight Modes

Neo 2 comes loaded with pre-programmed moves:

• Follow – standard tracking while you move.

• Spotlight – the drone stays in place like a tripod, but the camera follows you.

• Droney – pulls back and up for that classic reveal shot.

• Rocket – straight up overhead while keeping you in frame.

• Helix – spirals around you while moving up and away.

• Boomerang – arcs around and returns like a boomerang.

• Circle – simple orbit at a set radius.

• Dolly Zoom – that cinematic “background zooms while subject stays the same size” effect.

All of these can be triggered quickly, and they record both the “going out” and “coming back” portions where applicable.

Using the RC-N3 Controller

The RC-N3 controller turns the Neo 2 into a more traditional drone:

• You can fly manually with sticks for classic aerial shots.

• You can still use ActiveTrack while also nudging the drone around with the sticks to change angle or distance.

• You can get much higher altitude and further distance than in pure AI follow mode.

For things like big scenic B-roll or more cinematic passes over a park, river, or field, the RC-N3 combo is awesome. For my tracking shots on boards or bikes, I’ll mix both modes depending on what I’m doing.

Real-World Use & Final Thoughts

For my GetFitOver40 content, this drone is going to be used a lot for:

• Outdoor workout B-roll

• Riding shots (EUC, one-wheel style boards, bikes)

• Walking & talking videos where I need the camera to track me

• Lifestyle and travel content

For my Replica Airguns channel, it’ll mostly be a behind-the-scenes workhorse:

• Tracking shots when I’m outdoors doing walk-around shooting tests

• Dynamic angles when I don’t have a camera operator

You might not see the Neo 2 on camera much, but you’ll definitely see what it captures.

Is it perfect? No drone is. The HoverAir X1 Pro Max still wins for sheer image quality and low light. But:

• The Neo 2’s two-axis gimbal,

• 4K 60–100 fps,

• AI tracking,

• gesture control,

• obstacle avoidance,

• and the ability to replace multiple drones in my bag

…make it the best single “do-everything” AI drone I’ve used so far.

For anyone over 40 (or under) who’s into content creation, solo training videos, or just wants to get outside and play with some impressive tech that doubles as a creative outlet, the DJI Neo 2 is a seriously fun piece of gear.

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MagWheel T3 Range Test – Poor Man’s OneWheel GT with DJI Neo 2 Drone Follow

Today’s post is a bit of a mix between tech, toys, and staying active. I took my newly acquired MagWheel T3 out for a proper shakedown ride while having the DJI Neo 2 drone track and follow me for most of it.

The goal:

• See how this used MagWheel T3 actually rides

• Find out what kind of real-world range I can get

• Decide if it’s worth upgrading with a VESC controller (and maybe a new battery) and turning it into a “poor man’s OneWheel GT”.

MagWheel T3 vs OneWheel – First Impressions

Visually, the MagWheel T3 looks a lot like a OneWheel. Big central hub motor, single wheel, board on top. But the ride experience, especially with the original controller, is very different.

• My MagWheel T3 is an older, pre-VESC model with the stock MagWheel controller.

• Newer MagWheels and Trotters often come with VESC controllers, which give a ride much closer to a OneWheel in terms of smoothness and responsiveness.

Right now, my board feels:

• Jerky compared to a OneWheel

• A bit unpredictable in long turns (the nose can suddenly dip more than you’d expect)

• Awkward when mounting and dismounting until you get used to its behavior

On a OneWheel, the board won’t really engage until you’re level on the footpads. With the MagWheel T3, it starts at an angle and slowly comes up to level while you’re already on it. That alone takes some getting used to.

But the big selling point:
I picked this thing up used for about $195. For that price, I was expecting some compromises and probably a tired battery.

Riding Characteristics – The “Buck and Chuck” Factor

This board is fine on smooth pavement and mellow paths. Where things get sketchy is:

• Bumps, roots, curbs, and rough patches

• When you’re going faster and hit something uneven

• When the board starts a rocking or “bucking” motion

Instead of just a straight-up nosedive like a OneWheel can do when pushed too hard, the MagWheel tends to rock back and forth. If you overreact to that movement (like overcorrecting a fishtail in a car), you just make it worse and increase your chances of getting tossed.

What I’ve found helps:

• Stay relaxed and don’t over-correct

• Slow down for bumps and curbs

• Accept that this board takes more skill and finesse than a OneWheel, especially in stock form

By the end of the ride, I was noticeably more comfortable. I could roll up small curbs and deal with chunks of rough pavement as long as I kept my speed reasonable and didn’t panic when it started to “buck”.

Battery, Range & Power – How Did It Actually Do?

Let’s talk numbers, because that’s where this ride got surprisingly positive.

The MagWheel T3 I have:

• Runs a 60V system

• Battery is around 6Ah (~300Wh)

• Has a 1500W hub motor (roughly double the rated motor wattage of a OneWheel GT on paper, though controller and voltage/amps matter more than that number alone)

Remember, I bought this used. The previous owner told me he was only getting about 15 minutes of ride time, and it felt underpowered. When I picked it up, the tire was basically flat – my pump read 0 PSI. So he was likely riding on a almost-flat tire, which absolutely murders range and performance.

On my test ride:

• I rode about 8.5–9 miles total

• At 8.25 miles, I got my first 25% battery warning beeps

• I purposely ended the ride on a good note instead of running it right down to empty

Based on that:

• I’m comfortable saying I can get about 10 miles of real-world range out of this used battery

• With a fresh, higher-capacity battery (say 8Ah or so), I could probably push that into the 12–15 mile zone

For context, a OneWheel GT has:

• Higher overall battery capacity (around 9–10Ah)

• Slightly higher voltage (around 62–63V)

So the GT will still win on range, but this MagWheel T3 is shockingly decent, especially considering its age and price.

Speed & Safety

I didn’t try to break any land speed records here.

• I got the MagWheel T3 up to almost 15 mph

• I never hit speed warning beeps during the ride

• The board clearly has more top-end speed available

For me personally:

• Around 15 mph already feels fast enough, especially on a board I’m still getting used to

• At that speed, if you bail, you still have a chance to run it out and not completely destroy yourself

• Once you start pushing into the 20+ mph territory, crashes get more serious very quickly

With a VESC controller installed, this board should easily and safely do 20+ mph, but again, that doesn’t mean you should ride it there all the time—especially if you’re using it for casual cruising and just staying active outdoors.

DJI Neo 2 – Smarter Follow & Obstacle Avoidance

The other star of this session was the DJI Neo 2, which tracked me almost the entire ride.

A few highlights from how it behaved:

• It can track from the front or rear, and has rear cameras for obstacle sensing

• It will rise up a bit higher as you go faster to reduce the risk of running into ground-level obstacles

• When it sees trees or obstacles, it adjusts its position and height to avoid them

• Unlike the older Neo I had, the Neo 2 is much better at:

  • Staying in front instead of constantly drifting behind

  • Finding a safe way around you and obstacles, then reestablishing its position

  • Avoiding branches and objects instead of plowing straight into them

There were a couple of moments where the Neo 2 dipped, dodged, or swung wide around trees and then found a way back in front of me. The older Neo would have given up much sooner or smacked into something.

Overall, for follow shots and solo riding footage, the Neo 2 is a big upgrade in terms of intelligence and obstacle avoidance.

Why I’m Considering the VESC Upgrade

Here’s where the MagWheel T3 gets really interesting for tinkerers.

Right now:

• The stock controller is the weakest link

• There’s no app, no real-time battery readout, no way to adjust ride feel

• I’m basically guessing battery capacity from range and beeps

A VESC controller upgrade (around $300–$350 CAD by the time it’s in my hands) would give me:

• App support to monitor voltage, amps, temps, etc.

• The ability to tune tilt, nose dip, aggressiveness, and smoothness

• A much more OneWheel-like ride quality

• More control over how the board behaves under acceleration, braking, and cornering

If I throw:

• ~$200 for the board (what I already paid)

• ~$300–$400 for VESC and possibly a new battery

I’m still only in for around $600 CAD total, depending on how far I go. That’s for something that can ride similarly to a OneWheel GT, which costs well over $3,000 in Canada and locks you into their ecosystem (ship it back for nearly any major repair or battery work).

If you enjoy modding and doing your own repairs, the MagWheel/Trotter/VESC route is a much more open platform.

Final Thoughts – Worth It?

For $195 used, this MagWheel T3 is an absolute steal for me:

• The frame and hub are beefy and very solid

• The 1500W motor has more than enough power

• The range is better than expected, even on an older battery

• With a VESC controller and maybe a better battery, this thing could easily become my budget “GT alternative”

Is it perfect out of the box? No.

• It’s jerkier and less predictable than a OneWheel

• It requires more skill and patience to ride confidently

• You have to learn not to overreact when it bucks or rocks

But for someone like me who enjoys tinkering and doesn’t mind a learning curve, this MagWheel T3 is a fun project board and a very capable ride once you relax into it.

If you come across one of these used at a good price – and the motor and frame are solid – it may be worth grabbing, upgrading the controller, and, if needed, the battery. You’ll end up with something that can hang with the OneWheel GT in many ways, for a fraction of the price, and you’ll actually be able to work on it yourself.

And hey – it got me outside, moving, balancing, and having fun for over an hour. That’s what GetFitOver40 is all about: staying active in ways you actually enjoy.

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Wide Angle vs Neewer Ultra Wide and Fisheye for Blogging on a Smartphone

In this article I want to walk you through a real-world mobile creator setup I’ve been using with my Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra — including how I monitor framing, which lens I actually record with, and how add-on lenses from Neewer can change your field of view for vlogging.

If you record yourself with your phone (fitness tips, talking while walking, travel, behind-the-scenes, etc.), this is the kind of setup that lets you get high-quality footage without carrying a dedicated camera.

Why You Should Be Using the Main Camera on Your Phone (Not the Selfie Cam)

Let’s start with something most people get backwards.

Your phone actually has multiple cameras:

• The rear/main 1x camera (the one on the back of the phone),

• The ultra-wide camera (0.5x),

• The telephoto / zoom cameras, and

• The front/selfie camera (the one facing you when you’re looking at the screen).

Most people vlog with the selfie camera because they can see themselves. It’s convenient. But: that is not the best camera on your phone.

On a phone like the Galaxy S24 Ultra, the main rear 1x camera is the best camera:

• It has the best lens (better clarity, better glass),

• It has the best sensor (larger sensor = better light and detail),

• And it shoots the highest resolution and best frame rates.

We’re talking about a 50-megapixel sensor on that main 1x camera. That is the camera on the phone that gives you the cleanest image, the best sharpness, the best dynamic range. That’s the one you actually want to use for serious video.

The selfie/front camera? Lower megapixels, cheaper optics, usually worse in low light, and often limited in frame rate/resolution. Sometimes you can hit 4K, but often not at 60fps or with the same level of quality. It’s fine for casual clips, but it’s not what you want if you care about looking professional.

So the problem becomes:
How do you film yourself with the good camera when the good camera is pointed away from you and you can’t see the screen?

My Framing Trick: Using a Watch as a Monitor

Here’s how I solve that.

When I’m filming with the S24 Ultra’s main 1x rear camera, I can’t see the phone screen because it’s facing away from me. So instead, I mirror the camera preview to my smartwatch.

That means I’m holding the phone out in front of me, using the best camera on the device, and I can still check my framing by glancing at my watch. The watch basically becomes my little monitor.

This lets me:

• Use the highest-quality camera on the phone,

• Keep myself properly framed,

• Record in the best resolution / frame rate,

• And still vlog handheld like normal.

If you’re a solo content creator, this is a game-changer. You don’t need someone behind the camera.

The Limit of the Main Camera: Field of View

Now, there is one challenge when you film this way:

The main 1x rear camera is not super wide.

With your arm fully extended, you’re still fairly close to the lens. You don’t see a ton of background behind you. Sometimes that’s fine — like if I’m doing a more personal “talk to camera” clip — but other times I want to show more of the environment, more scenery, more gym space, more of what’s happening around me.

You could switch to the built-in 0.5x ultra-wide camera on the phone. That will instantly give you a wider field of view. But here’s the issue: those ultra-wide lenses are usually lower quality. Smaller sensor, softer edges, worse low-light performance. You’re giving up image quality to get width.

And remember: the whole point of this setup is to squeeze the absolute best image possible out of a phone.

So how do you get a wider shot while still using the best camera (the main 1x)?

The Neewer Cage + Threaded Lens System

This is where add-on lenses come in.

I’m using a metal phone cage / case from Neewer, that allows me to screw lenses directly onto the main 1x camera. The system I’m using is a Neewer setup. The case lines up the phone camera with a 17mm threaded mount so I can attach external glass securely. It’s not just a little clip-on that can wiggle or fall off — this screws on solid.

A few nice things about this approach:

• It lets me keep using the main 1x camera (which again is the best camera on the phone).

• I can change the field of view just by swapping the lens.

• The attachment is tight and centered so you’re not constantly fiddling with alignment.

• I can swap lenses fast.

The cage I’m using was about $40 CAD. The lenses are in the $50–$60 CAD range each. So we’re not talking pro cinema money here. There are $200-$300 mobile lenses out there that are sharper, yes, but for what I’m doing, this price-to-performance is honestly good enough.

Also worth noting: Neewer also has a slimmer case with that same 17mm threaded mount built in, so you don’t always have to run the full metal cage. That’s nice if you want something more “daily carry” instead of a full rig.

Lens #1: The Neewer LS-72 18mm Wide / Ultra-Wide Lens

First, I attached Neewer’s LS-72 18mm wide-angle / ultra-wide style lens (often marketed as something like an 18mm equivalent on full frame).

What this does:

• It pulls you back in frame.

• You get way more background in the shot.

• You don’t look like you’re jammed up against the camera.

For vlog style content — walking, talking, showing where you are — this is ideal. You can see my arm, you can see behind me, you get more environment and context. It feels less claustrophobic without me having to hold the phone on a huge selfie stick.

Importantly, this wide lens tries to keep things fairly natural. You don’t get a crazy warped bubble around the edges. Straight lines mostly still look straight. For talking-to-camera, that matters, because if the distortion is too strong, it starts looking like GoPro “action cam mode,” which isn’t always flattering.

This is my “everyday” solution. It gives me that wider field of view that the stock 1x camera doesn’t have, without forcing me to switch to the lower-quality built-in ultra-wide camera.

Lens #2: The Neewer LS-77 Fisheye Lens

Next, I tested the Neewer LS-77 14mm fisheye-style lens.

This one goes even wider than the wide/ultra-wide. You get that classic action-cam look: huge field of view, arm really visible, tons of scenery. It’s the style you see in skateboarding videos and POV action footage.

The tradeoff is distortion. With fisheye, the edges bend. You’ll notice curved lines, stretched corners, and more exaggerated perspective. It’s part of the look.

Is that bad? Not necessarily. It depends on what you’re shooting:

• For casual lifestyle vlog content where you just want “get me + everything around me,” it’s kind of fun.

• For high-energy/action-type clips, it actually looks great.

• For a serious sit-and-talk fitness coaching segment? Probably not what you want.

So I see the fisheye as more of a “special use” tool. Cool to have in the kit, but not my default.

Handheld Stability and Grip

In this test I wasn’t even using a gimbal. I just had the phone in the cage with a simple grip. You could absolutely add a small selfie stick or telescoping handle and get the camera even farther away for an even better angle — but what I was showing is that even at arm’s length you can get usable framing once you throw the wide/ultra-wide lens on there.

For travel, fitness clips at the park, gym walkthroughs, talking while walking — this is practical. You don’t need to bring a full camera bag. You just bring your phone and maybe one screw-on lens.

I’ve also got a compact MagSafe-style selfie stick/tripod on the way that’ll mount fast to the phone. That’s going to make this even easier to run as a one-person filming setup.

Cost and Practicality

Here’s what impressed me most:

• Neewer wide / fisheye lenses: about $50–$60 CAD each

• Neewer S24 Samsung Ultra Aluminum cage: about $40 CAD

• Total: well under the cost of buying a separate vlogging camera

Are these the absolute best lenses money can buy? No. You can spend a lot more and squeeze out more optical performance. But for the price, the quality is honestly very usable for YouTube, shorts, Instagram, etc.

And the biggest win is this:
I don’t have to bring a whole other camera.
I can run everything off my phone, still get high image quality, still get wide field of view, and still monitor framing with my watch.

That’s a really compact creator rig.

Final Thoughts

If you’re serious about mobile content, here’s the core takeaway:

1. Use the main rear camera on your phone whenever possible.
   That’s the best sensor, best lens, best resolution, best frame rate. It’s usually around 50 megapixels on modern flagships like the S24 Ultra. That’s the money camera.

2. Solve framing with a workaround, not by downgrading cameras.
   A smartwatch preview, a small external monitor, or even just test framing and mark a grip position — anything is better than switching to the lower-quality selfie cam.

3. Fix field of view with external glass, not by switching to a worse sensor.
   A good wide-angle attachment on the main 1x camera lets you stay wide without throwing away quality.

4. Keep a fisheye in the bag for fun shots.
   It’s not “every clip” usable, but it’s great for that action-cam look.

Bottom line: with a basic cage, a couple of threaded Neewer lenses, and a way to monitor your shot, your phone can absolutely act like a real vlogging camera. You get pro-looking footage, portability, and you’re ready to shoot any time without dragging extra gear around.

That’s the point: keep it simple, keep it fast, and still make it look good.

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Fall Backyard Late Day Rip with BETAFPV Meteor 75 Pro DJI O4 Lite

A beautiful late-day fall flight with my BETAFPV Meteor75 Pro running the DJI O4 Lite system with ND Filter. The golden light made for some awesome FPV cruising — weaving through tight branches, skimming low over open fields, and even ripping a few laps around a parked backhoe for fun. Nothing beats flying in that crisp fall air surrounded by color and texture.

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